Symbolising Subcultures – Change, Identity And Rebellion

The definition of subculture begins with a rebellious deviation from the natural order, but ends with the creation and symbolisation of a unique style. As Dick Hebdige suggests, members of a subculture often signal their membership through a distinctive and symbolic use of style, which includes fashions, mannerisms and language.

Since the 1950s and the rise of the active consuming teenager, subcultures have developed. At first, subcultures were symbolised by the way in which their members resisted mainstream styles and beliefs. The mods, the teddies, the skinheads, have all appropriated and subverted the traditional meaning of mass consumed fashions and as a result, been viewed by society as rebellious and potentially dangerous.

Above: Images of the Mods, the teddies and the skinheads.

Recently, however, interpretations of subcultures have changed. Subcultures are seen now, for the most part, as being different to mainstream fashion but not necessarily threatening. Sarah Thornton suggests that subcultures represent the creative while mainstream fashions represent the commercial. These two groups work side by side and are distinguished merely because of the way society interprets the stylistic symbols seen in their fashion.

Each subculture interprets and alters mainstream fashions to represent their individual and personal belief system. Perhaps the only reason subcultures attract so much attention is due to their past association with violence and danger. Nowadays, however, they exist in society as style leaders and active consumers.